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Timeless in Montana

Ours is a tiny town that is located in a small river valley that is about three miles wide and perhaps eight miles long. On either side of the valley, there are mountains. These aren’t exceptionally high; only about 2,000 to 3,000 feet above the valley floor, so we think of them as ‘hills’. However, the terrain is steep and rugged, climbing from the valley floor to the tops of the mountains in less than a mile. At times, it gives a feeling of being timeless, in more ways than one.

The pictures here are of just one place, roughly midway between our town and the county seat, 24 miles northwest of us. This is one of those places that seem caught in time. Except for the buildings and railroad tracks, the land itself probably looked very similar to this over 150 years ago, when the area was settled. Native Americans had been in the area for much longer, but the land probably still didn’t change much, even over the past several centuries.

Of secondary interest, this is also the site of one of the huge forest fires that raged in Montana in 2017. Less than a year has passed and the scars are still very evident.

Frozen in time

Bare spots can be seen on this extremely steep hillside. Only a year ago, the rock face would have been hard to see because of the huge number of trees that covered the entire hill. There are still trees here but the snow helps to show how a substantial part of these hills is now barren. Many of the trees that can be seen are also dead because of the fire. That isn't as apparent in this image.

The river can't be seen. It is at the base of the rock face. Of particular interest, though, and the reason this image was taken, is the frozen waterfalls in the lower left, just above the treetops at the bottom this picture. When the spring thaw comes, these will be free-flowing, cascading down the mountainside.

        • That is the interesting thing. Nearly everyone going from the east or southeast to Spokane, Washington, Seattle, or Cour d’Alene, Idaho, drive down that stretch of road. That is the most direct route from Missoula, Helena, or Great Falls, Montana, to those other cities. A lot of people talk about the ‘fly-over’ states, but truth is that most people who drive from one place to another don’t pay much attention to the areas they drive through. It doesn’t make a lot of sense, though, especially considering that tourism is one of this state’s biggest industries.

    • I agree. I’ve thought about meeting and becoming friends with the people who live in the place across from these waterfalls. I doubt they’d mind if someone took pictures of the falls from right across from them. :))

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Rock bands

This image is just to the right of the previous one. The bands of slate can be clearly seen because of the snow. Also evident is the lack of trees in most of the image. All of this hillside looked like the two swaths of trees that can be seen. The forest was dense. The forest service will be unable to replant in this area because it is so steep, so nature will need to eventually erase the fire scars. 

It is pretty easy to see why firefighters had difficulty battling the blaze. The issue was amplified because of the narrowness of this area and the altitude of the hills. This creates a natural corridor for winds. Repeatedly, the fire died down, only to be whipped up again by those winds.

    • The astounding part is that if there had been roads to get to where the fire began (the Clinton administration nixed putting in more roads and maintaining the ones that were already there) the fire could have been held to a couple of hundred acres in size. There was initially a single fire crew assigned to this fire…23 men and women…and by the time more crews were freed up to fight the fire, it had grown to over 7,000 acres. By the time this fire was contained, it had burned over 49,000 acres and over 100 families were forced to evacuate.

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        • Not just the community, it is the sentiment, state-wide. Six presidential terms and only since late last year has anything been done to reverse some of those terribly damaging presidential policies so the forests can start getting taken care of properly again. That is also primarily because we now finally have a secretary of the interior who came from a forest state (this one, Montana).

          Unfortunately, it will take a lot of years to reverse the damage done by bad policies over the last two plus decades. Still, there is now a directive that commits the US Forest Service to once again begin managing the forests.

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    • Very much so. In a place like this, the best the firefighters can hope to accomplish is to prevent the fire from spreading. It is too steep to do much else and they can’t get to the fire on a slope like this. It is also extremely dangerous. A forest fire can move faster than a person can run. If there is a change in wind directions, the firefighters are in serious trouble.

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    • Probably true. Fir trees, which these are, take about 45 years to reach maturity. Counting the time for the trees to naturally reseed the area and if there are no more fires in this location, it will probably be hard to tell there was a fire, in only 50-60 years.

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More banding and fire damage

This is yet more of a northerly view. This shows how much of this side of the hill was destroyed by fire. Again, none of the white patches would have been visible last year. The only part that would have been seen is the sheer cliff in the middle right of this image. The rest of the hillside was even denser than the stand of trees that can be seen just over the railroad tracks. The fire reached the top of the hills, less than a half mile away and 2,500 feet above where this picture was taken. Meanwhile, the fire was also burning on the other side of these hills.

        • If there is a good thing about last year’s fires, that is it; of all the fires that ended up burning 9 million acres, none of them were intentionally set, only a couple were man-caused (carelessness), and the rest were caused by lightning. All three of the major fires we’ve had in the last three years locally were lightning caused, too.

    • That is very true. A lot of these regulations are now being scaled back, but that takes so much time. It takes much less time and money to maintain a functioning system than it does to repair it once it breaks down due to neglect. The forests have been mismanaged about 1990.

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This is the view almost due north. It shows how narrow this part of the river valley is. It also shows the U shape that was cut by glaciers and subsequently by the river. There are mountains in the distance, but only a thin strip can be seen above a low snow-cloud formation filling that section of the valley. To give a notion of the distance, those clouds are roughly four miles from where I was standing when I took this image.

This was the fire

This is a picture taken from our back porch of the fire that has been referenced repeatedly in these images. The location of these flames is about 15 miles south of where the other images were taken, so this should give a good idea of how big this fire was. The air distance from where this was taken and the fire in the image is about three and a quarter miles.

    • This is the third big fire we’ve had in the last five years, though this was the biggest. A lot of people didn’t hear much about these huge fires because while they were burning, Houston was getting clobbered by a hurricane. Most of the emergency funding went to Houston and almost none to fighting fires in the west.

        • Yes, and most of the manpower that was available were busy fighting fires in other parts of the state. There was a huge fire in Glacier National Park, two more southeast of us, and a big one northwest of us, along with about 30 smaller fires that were “only” a few hundred to a few thousand acres. They were pulling in firefighters from all over the country. Funding was the biggest issue, though.

    • People here are used to them and most know what to do when a fire threatens, but yes, it is a major concern when a big fire threatens the valley. Many people were evacuated. It wasn’t just the people, either. Most of the people who evacuated also had horses, cattle, sheep, dogs, cats, and other animals. Many ranches in the area, those that weren’t threatened by fire, opened up their ranches to take care of the animals. It was a community effort and people from other counties even offered to help.

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Other side of the road

Shown here are the hills on the other side of the road. There are also bare spots here. These are partly because of fire, but not the same fire. Most of the damage here was caused by fires that raged in 2016. Part of the bare spots here is also because of the talus slides that periodically run down the hill. A talus is a pile of rock debris that accumulates at the base of steep slopes and in one of these rock slides, trees and shrubs are uprooted and destroyed.

Incidentally, the hills in this picture are prime bighorn sheep country. This section of road, from here to the other side of the clouds in the draw in the middle left of the image, is one of the worst in the state for collisions between cars and bighorn sheep. Over 438 bighorns have been killed in this small stretch of road, according to Montana Department of Transportation. 

Two things to note about car/bighorn collisions. 1. They are almost always fatal for the bighorn and nearly always totally destroy the car.  2. In Montana, there are big fines for hitting a bighorn with a car, even if the animal jumps out in front of you. Many people find themselves not only needing to replace their cars and pay for a hospital visit, they get an automatic fine from the state, too. Anyone driving this section of road needs to slow down and stay alert.

    • I just hope that people start driving with more care here. Too many bighorns have been killed. There are numerous signs and the speed limit is lowered in this area, yet people still tend not to pay attention.

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        • That is so, definitely. People often drive close to 80 mph while there is snow on the road. That isn’t wise. The speed limit in most of Montana is 70 mph and in this stretch of road, it is 55 mph, but people still drive it too fast, regardless of conditions. It is no wonder that so many bighorns are hit.

  1. Thanks for the driving tips. Maybe it’s better I never try to drive in Montana. It hardly seems right to automatically blame the drivers who were being careful if the accident is the fault of the bighorn.

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    • The reason for the automatic fines is that there are so few bighorns and people very often aren’t being careful and aware. We’ve even had highway patrol officers who’ve hit bighorns accidentally and who get fined. Part of that is about safety, though, and it is an attempt to get drivers to slow down and pay attention. If a car is moving at 70 mph and it collides with a bighorn, it is like slamming into a 250-pound boulder. Bighorns weigh about the same as large deer, but they are stockier, with a lower center of gravity. A deer will do a lot of damage, but it gets lifted up and over. Bighorns rarely get lifted up, so the damage is much greater. A considerable number of drivers have died after hitting a bighorn and many others have found themselves in the hospital with severe injuries.

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Ice fall closeup

This is a closeup of the frozen waterfalls. The chances are excellent that if a person didn't know that there were waterfalls over this cliff, they wouldn't even notice the frozen condition of those falls. They appear as mostly gigantic icicles. Some of these are over 30 feet from top to bottom. 

The rock the ice falls is on is a curious mixture. The rock is largely slate and it dates back to a time when the entire area was covered by a shallow sea before the uplift of the Rocky Mountains began. The uplift not only exposed the rock, it is responsible for the tilt that can be seen in the rock, sloping downward from left to right.

    • They are indeed. Most people don’t even notice them and many of those who see these frozen waterfalls and do notice them have no idea what they are.

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    • It is truly an amazing sight. During the spring thaw, something else happens that is neat to see. As the ice begins to melt, it drips just like it does from an icicle. This continues for some time, then suddenly the ice falls and the waterfall is flowing normally, just like that.

    • One of the neat things about living in a place with so many mountains is that waterfalls aren’t uncommon here. Most aren’t very spectacular and a lot of them are off the beaten track, but they are there. People often don’t notice them, though, even when they can easily be seen, like this waterfall.

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Written by Rex Trulove

18 Comments

    • It was snowy yesterday when these pictures were taken, but it is sunny today and almost 40 F. It is nice and warm. The thing is that this spot doesn’t get much sunshine because that section of the river valley runs north and south. Even when it gets above freezing, the waterfall doesn’t melt very fast. It will probably start flowing again in May.