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Surfing is a water sport in which surfers glide over the surface of the waves on a board called surf. Waves that are suitable for surfing usually originate in the oceans, but because of the enthusiasts are also made artificial water basins, where waves are generated by machines. The record, which was recorded in the Guinness Book of the highest wave it was ever surfing, is almost 24 meters, this achievement being documented by ESPN, but among surfers it is known that the real record is over 30-meter wave . Only four people have witnessed this achievement by a US surfer who makes two downhill waves of such magnitude as the second time he loses his life after the wave hits him in the rocks.
© Elenka Smilenova 2017 – All Rights Reserved
Wave intensity
The waveguide geometry can be represented as the ratio between length and width. The ideal cylindrical swirl has a ratio of 1: 1 and the classic almond shape of the tube is 3: 1. When the width of the wave tube is wider than high, then it is known as a square.
The velocity of the wave tube is determined by the angle of the water surface on which the surfers glide. It is considered to be fast when the angle is 30 °, for the mean - 45 ° and for the 60 ° fast.
Origin of browsing
For centuries this sport has been part of the Polynesian culture. For the first time, Europeans became acquainted with the art of sliding on the waves in 1767 when researcher Samuel Wallis visited Tahiti. After him, Lieutenant James King, part of Captain James Cook's crew, describes the art of surfing.
George Fried is considered to be "the father of modern surfing," as he first starts surfing up on the board. Until now, the drivers had been lying on their stomachs or standing on their knees.
In 1907, Baron Henry Huntington carried the art of surfing to California after being impressed by Hawaiian surfers. His original idea is to attract more tourists to the Redondo Beach as he invests a considerable amount of real estate there. He hired George Fried to demonstrate the browsing of local youth and visitors. So, surfing very quickly becomes a popular sport and entertainment experience in the United States. Freed reduces the surf itself, which is now 4.9 meters long, making it just half so it can be controlled more easily.
The best waves for surfing
They occur when wind is drawn into the oceans away from the shore. The magnitude of the wave is determined by the force and length of the air current. The best waves come near the coasts where low-pressure systems pass. The winds that come from the shore strike the waves in front of them, and so the wave tube, which is the favorite of the surfers, is produced. Good waves do not only get in one place throughout the year, but they move according to the air currents. This causes professional athletes to travel from coast to coast to follow the perfect wave.
